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I've gathered here a few common technical problems and solutions. i.e.. the
bits that commonly go wrong on TPi's. Some of them are just general mini faults
that afflict the TPi too.
| Cooling Fan Runs continuously - This is a safety
feature programmed into the ECU. If the ECU is unable to establish the
engine coolant temperature it turns on the cooling fan, as a fail safe to
prevent overheating. |
| Solution The cause of this is that the ECU cant 'see'
the temp sender. This can either mean the temp sender is faulty, the lead isn't
connected or the lead isn't making a connection. Rover found a problem on
earlier TPi's where the plug that goes on the CTS (coolant temp sender) is
prone to corrosion. They produced a modified connector and link harness to
cure this. it costs around £25 from Rover and replaces about 30cm on the
existing harness. |
| Stalling at junctions/erratic idling This is another
common problem. If you find when you pull up at a junction the engine revs
drop then fall right off and stall, this maybe due to the following. |
| Solution I found that using Supermarket petrol caused
this. Supermarket petrol is basic British Standard, however other Fuel
suppliers have higher standards and add other chemicals to improve
performance. I now run on Shell optimax or Esso 95 however and good branded unleaded
fuel should show improvement. Cant say i've had great performance from BP
though. Another cause of this could be dirty
injectors. a dose of injector cleaner such as Nitrox can work wonders.
Also see the next item.
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| Throttle Sticks open/engine stalls. This is a
problem on earlier cars, you find the throttle can stick open, letting the
engine rev, if you touch the pedal the revs go further up or you get the
stalling problem above. |
| Solution The earlier cars had Plastic throttle
bodies, these can warp or crack and can pinch the throttle spindle. Burlen
Fuel systems no sell a Metal throttle body which the later cars had. This
over comes both problems but also has the added benefit of allowing the
throttle to fully open, which it doesn't on the plastic ones. god knows
why! |
| Engine rocks back and forth on power application/release,
clunking, knocking. A fault common for years on minis. the rubber
bushes in the top engine steady bar are prone to wear. |
| Solution Rover recognised this (only took them 40
years!!!) the original bushes were only designed for a basic 848cc or
998cc engine. they could only just cope with that so a 1275cc engine with
increased torque and a heavy injection system hung on the back you have no
chance. There are many aftermarket bushes available, I tried the so called
up-rated poly-nylon ones. these are oil resistant, offer more wear
resistance than rubber, but AREN'T heat resistant. so basically when on
the side of the engine they melt. Rover however produce an up-rated bush
that has a bonded in metal spacer. These are far superior to the originals
and will fit any mini not just TPi's. they are available as part number
KKF101320 at a cost of around £3.50 each (you need 2) |
| Oil Temperature gauge doesn't work No it's not an
oil pressure gauge! |
| The mini was exported to various European countries. In
hotter climates such as Italy, southern France etc the hotter temperatures
cause the oil temperature to run hotter so the gauge registers. In the UK
the air cooling the radiator/engine is enough to keep the oil temp down so
the gauge doesn't register anything. The reason they fitted an oil temp
gauge over an oil pressure is that they are cheaper and it's just t fill
up the dash. Also in hotter climates you use thicker oils. So in the UK
the oil runs at the correct temperature, but too low for the gauge to
show. In very hot UK summers the gauge may make it as far as 100deg! i.e.
the 1st graduation on the gauge. |
| Walnut/Alloy dash rattles and shakes. |
| Common problem this. I did a bit of work on mine and click
here to read about what I did., I'll take some pictures then add them to
the site next time my dash is out. |
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TPi Tech FAQ's